| Author |
Topic: All O2 Wacker problems Solved
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Semtex
Enigma Hive Bee
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posted 03-09-2000 06:25 PM
Osmium, thanks a bunch for the workup...
Cesium, do you know of any rxn's that would be happening with the
interior of the keg and the catalyst(s) that might account for the poor
yeilds experienced? Thanks in advance... 
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-09-2000 07:28 PM
FUCK all that, I'm taking that glass 6-gal fiberglass reactor, and hooking
up the glycerol/IPA reaction technique, this gonna be pimp if it
works!
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hellman Hive
Bee |
posted 03-09-2000 08:49 PM
It's funny Cesium, I had that exact thought of bubbling gass, just the
other day,. What a precise and beautiful method that would be,. The
tubing your talking about would say3 cm diameter tubing 3.5mm wall
thickness at a length say 1metre would cost about $10-30 U.S. If we
could only tell when to turn the O2 off, I think only experimentation will
help this,.
Gee, you could rig this baby up and put it in your lounge room, next to
the t.v. even!
hellman I'm sure you can buy that glass tubing as plastic as
well.
Equarius, excellent news!
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hellman Hive
Bee |
posted 03-09-2000 08:51 PM
Good luck KRZ,
Glycerol should be in every household, Man, can't wait to see the
results!!.
hellman
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hellman Hive
Bee |
posted 03-09-2000 08:54 PM
Good luck KRZ ,
Glycerol should be in every household, Man, can't wait to see the
results!!.
hellman (time for the hellman to learn UBB!)
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b1055 Hive Bee
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posted 03-09-2000 10:14 PM
stop being a pussy and sitting on your laurels, hellman. try something!
well ptfe was fitted to the keg, in 12" pieces, the pieces were etched and
bonded together, then we melted the ptfe film around the join. started
pressure, heard a loud pop at 90psi, shut everything down, and found 2
distinctly seperate pieces of ptfe. plastics company says theres no
hardcore psi way to bond ptfe. fuck that sucks. so - we headed to a
marine shop and found 2 ton epoxy and kevlar fabric calling our name, so
the first coat has been applied to the mini 1 gal carboy... let you know
how the pressure test goes after a few more coats. i think magnetic
stirring should work on a vessel this small.
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-09-2000 10:39 PM
On its own a carboy will hold a good amount of pressure, you should bee
all set. Damn 2-ton epoxy AND kevlar, I feel like a bitch now using
fiberglass and all, oh well, I think 100psi will do fine.
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-09-2000 10:42 PM
PS- Don't forget to sand it down for better adhesion.
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equarius Hive
Bee |
posted 03-10-2000 12:53 AM
KrZ; Reaction wasn't cooled, the exo reaction actually heated up the water
bath.
Semtex; That's right it was dissolved in a beaker. The pressure stays
about the same for about the first 1.5 hours as the heat rises then starts
going down. Sounds as though there is a serious leak in your system..
there's no way it could all be consumed and have so little product. The
ketone I got definately is the real deal, it aminates, responds to the
bisulphite, color is right, distil temp is right. I cleaned out the keg
using Acetone and there didn't appear to be any signs of corrosion. How
did you monitor temp if no bath was used??
As far as this pd recovery stuff I think an easy method would be to
convert it back to PdCl2 with cupric after the O2 is removed, then
centerfuge in a dryer, then vac filter. Possibly add water first to make
it less soluble?I dunno.. will try.
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-10-2000 09:09 AM
Man, have you guys seen thos vacuum filter carboys? I talked with a
technician this morning and he said they go through a 4-5day ultra-slow
cooling process and that they are check for micro-fractures. Sounds like
the bomb, comes in 5gallon and 12gallon capacities, usually with a 3/8"
NPT slip type input, they can even provide it with a protactive plastic
coating for added safety. If you get one of these tooled to fit an
autoclave style cap, and then line the badboy with kevlar and some of that
2-tonne epoxy, it would be allll over baby. The layering of the carboy was
completed yesterday, it was sanded down and coated with yellow rustoleum,
now to put tape on it and paint black stripes with balck metallic gloss
rustoleum. Beeboy style.
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Cesium NewBee
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posted 03-10-2000 09:47 AM
Semtex Enigma: All references I have seen mentioned corrosion of SS due
to the function of Cloride ions from both PdCl2 and CuCl2. The more
catalyst was used the more corrosion. Might be that some Fe ions are
getting into the reaction mixture and negatively effects conversion of
olefine to some byproducts. Or might be that some Pd compound is bonded to
the wall decreasing thus the actual concentration of the free catalyst in
the mixture.
Hellman: As I am a very lazy bee I prefer the idea not to mix or
shake like a crazy, just sit and watch the bubbles doing the job for me.
Probably some kind of plastic will suffice, but the ketone is very
agressive to plastics and could dissolve it. So I would be carefull at
high pressures.
KrZ: I am impatiently waiting for your results and praying for
success. If you will not reuse glycerol residue, I can send you some
proven ideas about Pd recovery. Look at your e-mail. I know the vac.
filters, but how do you want to mix them? Or are you thinking about some
kink of shaking device? Not sure if shaking will be so easy with a 12
gallon one.
From a SWICS experience: when trying Wacker in SS Paar reaction vessel,
after the reaction on the walls as well as on the SS propeller was seen a
black-rusty coating impossible to wash away.
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-10-2000 10:11 AM
I've got a 500rpm orbital shaker with rubberized base, and a strap-mount
cylinder bracket, then a hook above the area to lead-in the hose from the
top. I've seen alot of the other recovery methods but I think the only
thing I'm really interested in is the glycerol idea, but does it really
need to be added pre-reaction, couldn't you add it post in a stirred vac
dist. for the same results?
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hellman Hive
Bee |
posted 03-11-2000 09:00 PM
[i]my two cents[\i][\b]
The can of worms is opening again, will we push on through amist these
variabls or will we stagnate [b][i] LIKE BEFORE[\i]!
1) reactions must stay around 50 , no higher than 55C 2) ALL
Catalyst & co-catalyst to be pre mixed 24 hours before adition,. 3)
Safrole to be introduced over 1 hour 4) ALSO ONE OF MY BELIEFS IS THAT
NOT DOING A NAOH WASH AFTER REACTION AND NOT DISTILLING CAUSES SIGNIFICANT
ANIMATION PROBLEMS
As this method has the potential for great reward, as I have had not
success I believe it deserves professional investigation and
attention,. [i]Gee, if someone had good access to a [b]tlc, nmr[\b] we
could really nut this bastard down,.' Obviously we need control
conditions, ratios and samples over time of a standard amount of
ketone[\i]
Or just someone like equarius to freak us repeatable results??..
[b][i]3 Successes in a roy eh??!!![\i][\b]
Write the Whole baby up equarius, QUICK!! .
[b]Tips[\b]
1) to prevent the stirr bar causing damage on the reaction vessel, Just
insert a ceramic disc or some other inert substance to be placed where the
bar doth spin.
hellman That's all for now 

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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-12-2000 03:11 AM
It is so blatantly obvious that you believe the ONLY WAY to do things is
exactly as you have done them. When you haven't really experimented! Where
is the fun in following some damn recipe book! Invent something, imrpove
something!
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homebrew NewBee
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posted 03-12-2000 12:22 PM
get a chem grade containment bag to fit your reaction vessal as closely as
possible, if you must choose, choose bigger. Stuff it in your steel
reactor, and continue on.....
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-12-2000 02:20 PM
Stuff it in your reactor bizantch. I'm not trying anything I didn't read
about in those lovely articles of Cesiums.
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hellman Hive
Bee |
posted 03-12-2000 08:33 PM
Krz,
I wish you would put a reference on who you are pissing off, [b]Geez
your an anoying arrogant shit sometimes![\b]
Come on
Hellman
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hellman Hive
Bee |
posted 03-12-2000 08:52 PM
Krz,
Sorry, about the short post before, had to change terminals
If your post was refering to mine,,-I do my best to contribute here,
and expereiment when possible, It may be true that I am not as insane
as your character appears to be,. I'm not a ketone once a day man. O.K.
I only try to catalze a lil' success, as if that isn't
obvious.
I just want the problem licked,. And to lick this problem we
could fuck around for years which we have done, or do something reasonably
scientific.
My question to you is? You have been experimenting for some time in
this o2 field, You must have a reliable method that consistently works,
right?
What is it?[\b]
[b]Equarius, I would love for you to fully explain your
proceedure, as it seems to be reliable. \
hellman- Fuck that for a post
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b1055 Hive Bee
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posted 03-12-2000 08:57 PM
show some respect you halfwit. what twisted state of mind are you in that
you think thats going to help the o2 process along(even tho this is prolly
the end) by talking shit to the pioneer. please just read until you can do
something on your own.
well it took 3 days but the new reactor is
done... its a heavy walled 1L rb flask wrapped in 4 layers of kevlar. took
it to 125 psi and left pressurized. came back 8 hours later, still at 125,
everything looks cool. awaiting new temp meter for vac distill, then well
post some results.
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hellman Hive
Bee |
posted 03-12-2000 09:25 PM
b1o55,
So it's a malee, Such an arogant pimp as KRZ won't stay here or
leave here on my account,. If you keep making him feel this good, that
will give him more reason to leave and hurt you and people like
you,. There's no excuse for the way he carries on, FUCK HIM, I've
tended to ignore it,until now
We can carry on without him b1o55, The instergator of conflict is
he,
Anonymous am I
hellman
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b1055 Hive Bee
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posted 03-12-2000 09:41 PM
please stop cluttering the thread. dont respond unless you have something
to contribute.
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Semtex
Enigma Hive Bee
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posted 03-12-2000 10:24 PM
Thanks for the update b1055, it looks like we might have this thing
figured out if all goes well with your little ditty...
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-13-2000 12:10 AM
All I said hellman, was that you were going over ground we have covered
consistently already! And the % yields with heating REALLY aren't as good
as the RT yields! Aside from that, the method that works really well that
I know of is the wacker in glass at high psi, and with significant
agitation. The idea here is really a perfected semi-industrial scale
procedure. The tone of your post was that we were some ignorant fools not
following the "recipe" but to that I can only say that we are researching
something and trying to acheive perfection!
b1055- I'd imagine that bad boy you made could hold considerably
more pressure! Not that it is even necessary, you're already in the
perfect range. Hope to hear some brilliant success stories with it. I want
this glycerol to run pimpishly, just hope it turns out okay!
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equarius Hive
Bee |
posted 03-13-2000 01:27 AM
Lets reinvent the wheel.. I propose a 5 or 6 sided one. Must be a glass
wheel wrapped in kevlar. To be used only with donkey driven carts.
Osmium gave us this reaction eons ago. He used a champagne bottle, 100
psi O2, hard shaking, and elevated temp. None of us listened to the higher
temp thing as THE O2 ref (joc 34) and others indicate the best selectivity
at 30C. KrZ improved (drasticly) the procedure by proving that hard
stirring and can be used to uptake the O2 instead of shaking and got us
back on track with the higher temp. I believe a higher temp than 25C is
needed to get the reaction to progress (Osmium agree?). The annoying thing
about glass jugs and such, besides explosion risk, is an annoying curve
which makes it very hard to attain vortex stirring.
This reaction even works with air as spiceboy proved with a measly 17%
oxygen. Everyman did the O2 wacker in the SRV and had success long ago
(see his posts).
This reaction is very high yeilding and consistent. I'm not claiming I
had 90% yields or anything as my workup really sucked and I lost alot
there and durring distillation but I am saying that of the oil recoverred
it was ketone (*possibly* some aldehyde) and no evidence of Safrole.
That's using the keg, which apparently everone thinks is reacting with the
catalyt. As Cesium pointed out above, this reaction is a function of
catalyst (pd) concentration and cl. In my case the catalyst concentration
was very low at 2g PdCl2 per 500g olefin and it appeared that, yes, there
is a coating on the wall with the appearance of pd which is resistant to
removal (which should only help things).
If the reaction does't work for you guys then its time to cut variables
and find out why, in your case, it doestn't work. Ie. O2 in the solvent
can be verified by checking if it comes out uppon depressurization.
Normally I would be doing this reaction alot but I'm swimming in ketone
and busy making precursers and doing the final reaction.. and building
glass wheels.
Gotta go.. the crack pipe is beconning me.
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equarius Hive
Bee |
posted 03-13-2000 01:28 AM
Semtex; the reaction does need a tiny bit of water I beleive.
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-13-2000 02:00 AM
Yields with the SS, yes, good ones, no. The SS always seems to give such
extensive polymerization. And the 90% plus yields with pure O2 are real,
but when you heat it the yields are lowered but not by alot. I believe
that damn reference and I think the notes on polymerization of 1-octene DO
apply! Besides wrapping something in epoxy and fiberglass is easy and
cheap, not to mention the versatility that such a device has. You're now
open to all the reactions that react with SS or give lowered yields!! And
there are ALOT of them, believe me!
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equarius Hive
Bee |
posted 03-13-2000 03:01 AM
Pimp this;
Walked over to my selction of plastic. Selected a blue 4L HDPE ice
cream pail. Regret, should have chosen the orange. Folded it. Put it
into the keg. Opened it up inside. Perfect radius.
Problems solved?
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b1055 Hive Bee
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posted 03-13-2000 08:55 AM
nice eq - be careful removing/replacing that keg top. about problems with
stirring, we just picked out a round bottomed flask with a heavy enough
wall. anything inside gets vortexed all the way up to the neck. were just
playing around with ways off introducing the cucl2 through an inlet
adapter right now... are ptfe temp probes sold by an service industry??
i could really use one asap =)
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-13-2000 12:09 PM
Nice, maybe it will work. Fuck it, I'm talking to the welders
again.
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equarius Hive
Bee |
posted 03-14-2000 02:37 AM
pail update;
The pail can be made maleable by heating with boiling water so it
doesn't create holey creases upon insertion.
Sliding the pail to the bottom makes it FB and raises the stirring
surface to a degree at which vortex stirring unnatainalbe. The solution to
this is to form the plastic to the rounded bottom using heat and
imagination.
pail power
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-14-2000 02:42 AM
If it melts with hot water I can't see it being all that great? But tell
us how i goes regardless, all the best.
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equarius Hive
Bee |
posted 03-14-2000 03:42 AM
It gets more bendy.. thats it. Cherry Baby has some applied data saying it
can even be autoclaved.
Anyhow, I have a bomb run in progress at 70 so we'll know soon.
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scwam Hive Bee
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posted 03-15-2000 03:21 PM
All I got to say is thank you KRZ for comming up with this ghetto funk
shit as this has worked successfully for swinm with yields better than he
expected. 1st attempt = 65ml total post wacker oil [undistilled sassy and
ketone mix] put in al/hg = 12g mdma 2nd attempt = 125ml total post
wacker oil [both undistilled too] made over 26 grams mdma with still more
being extracted. This reactor is truly a breeze to do.
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scwam Hive Bee
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posted 03-15-2000 03:29 PM
Forgot something just to add for data reasons. Above ratios were 1pd 4g
cu(anhyd) to every ~140ml oil. 3" stirbar place in a 4.2 liter HDPE bug
sprayer (8mm thick, $10). Pumped to 20 psi with atm air, then between
75-95 psi 02 with heat at ~30-40c for 12 hours. 2nd time was same but very
little if any heat and only averageing 75-85 psi (since one blew up at
around 95 psi) running for 28 hours (this one was the higher yielding one,
and smelled somewhat more fragrant). Its so easy a chimp could do
it!
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-15-2000 08:22 PM
hahahah, wuhahahaha
PASSIVATING - A very confusing term, since the common usage has taken
on a different meaning than the technical definition. In past experience,
users (including engineers) of commercial fasteners seldom mean the old
technical terminology. Technically, passivating is not cleaning but is a
process of dipping fasteners into a nitric acid solution to rapidly form a
chromium oxide on the surface of the material, creating a passive film
that protects stainless from further oxidation (see PASSIVE FILM). The
purpose of passivating is to remove both grease left from manufacturing
and traces of steel particles which may have rubbed off manufacturing
tools onto the fastener. In common commercial parlance (meaning
non-military and aerospace), passivating means cleaning to users, and the
terms “passivating” and “cleaning” are used interchangeably. A wide range
of cleaning methods using different mixtures containing nitric, phosphoric
and other acids or simply exposing cleaned stainless fasteners to air for
a period of time will result in a “passivated” condition. For fasteners
that have been properly cleaned, it is impossible to determine the method
of cleaning or passivation that was used.
What about HCl or H2SO4??? Put H2SO4 in there and stir it with O2 under
pressure to form a passive layer! This must be why equarius got such
results, if you don't clean the reactor in between runs this passive film
should eventually form!
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KrZ Hive Bee
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posted 03-15-2000 08:26 PM
Ack, I can't believe I said HCl and H2SO4, wasn't thinking. But I bet
chromic would do nicely. Anyone tried those teflon coat dealios
yet?
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